The Old Village today has two personalities – and both have their own charm. In the winter, it rests and recuperates. The few year-round residents enjoy a wonderful peace, sharing the neighbourhood only with less than fifty or so people, the dogs that lie sleepily in the Plateia, the visiting birds on their way through to different climes and not a lot else. The shops are mostly closed, as are the tavernas – although there is usually somewhere open  to get something to eat or drink. It’s quiet, but the views remain spectacular and some of those winter skies at nightime are very special.

In the spring, we gradually see everything start to come back to life. Nature does its bit with a very special display of spring flowers, almond blossom, the stunning pink flowers on the Judas trees and a gleaming coat of snow on Mt Durfus on neighbouring Evvia. There is the sound of industry in the air, as the paint pots come out and doors and shutters get their annual makeover. Greek music filters across the hillsides, accompanying the sound of strimmers, chainsaws, hammers ... all the tools of trade are out, preparing the island for the visitors to come.

Gradually the summer approaches and the village comes back to life. The shops throw back the shutters and put their wares on display; taverna chairs come out ready for long balmy evenings under the stars; the ‘mule’ comes out of his winter quarters to begin his work of taking the rubbish to the bins; the bus starts its daily return journeys; car parking restrictions are put in place; and the visitors start to arrive. Just a few at first, and then more as the summer goes on, reaching a peak in mid August when the celebration of Panagia takes place in the Old Village.